Reviews: Eclipse Foods Mimics Milk; Plus, Smash Foods, Fancypants Baking

In this reviews roundup, we take a bite out of Smash Foods’ healthier twist on toaster pastries, Fancypants’ crispy cookies, and Eclipse Foods’ non-dairy milk alternative.

Fancypants Baking Co. Bite Sized Cookies

After two decades of focusing on decorated cookies, Fancypants Baking Co. has ushered in a new era of growth centered around a line of bite-sized, sustainability-focused cookies baked with “pantry ingredients.” Last year, the brand debuted its line of crispy cookies inspired by a grandmother’s homemade recipes. Today, the lineup spans Birthday Cake, Ginger Snap, Oatmeal Raisin, Salted Caramel, S’mores, Mint Chocolate and Gluten-Free Chocolate Chip.

Things that stand out:

• The recipes feature a proprietary flour blend of King Arthur Baking Company’s flour and oat flour, plus butter, sugar and eggs, and are free of peanuts and tree nuts.
• We sampled new seasonal flavors Lemon Tart and Strawberry Shortcake, alongside best-selling Chocolate Chip. Each bite boasted a buttery crunch and balanced sweetness.
• The distinctive red packaging and elevated design elements – including front-of-pack product imagery – stand out on shelf among a sea of premium cookies offered by the likes of Tate’s Bake Shop and others.

Things to consider:

• Are the brand’s sustainability efforts – specifically the upcycled label on pack – resonating with consumers? The concept has yet to gain traction among mainstream shoppers.

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Eclipse Non-Dairy Whole Milk

Eclipse Foods debuted its plant-based take on milk last month after discontinuing its line of frozen dessert pints due to declining demand. Inspired by the milk of Hokkaido, Japan, this shelf-stable swap is crafted with chickpea and pea proteins to replicate the molecular structure of milk and is designed to function like conventional dairy in a bevy of beverages, from mochas to milkshakes. The team also targeted flavor, stability, sweetness and whiteness in development, areas where the company claims many plant-based milks on the market fall short.

Things that stand out:

• Extremely creamy and thick, with a sweet taste akin to oat-based alternatives.
• It froths and foams like cow’s milk and complements coffee’s bitter notes.
• In addition to being plant-based, the product is gluten-, soy- and nut-free – an important differentiator for those with common food allergies.

Things to consider:

• Plant-milk is a saturated market, with a number of leading players boasting simple, clean ingredient decks. With canola oil, phosphates and gums in the formulation, can Eclipse effectively compete?

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Smash Foods Toasties

Smash Foods is launching a wholesome twist on toaster pastries, with whole wheat crust and the brand’s signature superfood jam. Available in Strawberry, Concord Grape and Blueberry flavors, Smash Foods Toasties are debuting at Whole Foods Market stores nationwide.

Things that stand out:

• The products contain simple, wholesome ingredients including whole wheat flour, dates, coconut oil, coconut sugar, egg whites, chia seeds and fruit juice.
• This new offering represents a smart extension for the brand, which began in jams and expanded to snack bites last year.
• The product fills a gap in the natural segment, where few Pop-Tarts challengers exist.

Things to consider:

• Some icing or frosting would take these toasties to the next level. There appears to be a drizzle on top that offers more visual appeal than flavor.

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